Two Days Exploring

The past two days have led to some fabulous adventuring with my mom. Though we have not yet exhausted all of the tourist attractions in this city, I've been feeling a bit under-the-weather and not so inclined to spend the day bumping into and battling with other tourists. The weather outside has been less than perfect, so our daily excursions have taken place when we look outside and say "quick! let's go before it rains again!" i must get a real pair of rain boots back in London (also..any tips on where would be fab).

Yesterday we decided to visit the famous Officina Profuma-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. They are a legendary pharmacy and parfumerie, started in, get this, the year 1221 by monks. They grew herbs in their gardens to make medicines and herbal remedies. The building where the Officina resides today was established in 1612. Can you imagine? I was incredibly psyched to go.

I walked into the building--even the entryway was grand. I've visited a lot of castles and manor homes in Britain, but nothing compared to the magic of this place. It doesn't feel like a museum, it feels like stepping back in time. For one, as you enter the building you can smell the perfumes, soaps, and candles. You can also smell the lavender and honey--it's a bit overwhelming. It was softly lit in the main room with incandescent light, and I could have easily been in an apothecary in Harry Potter. Vials and vases filled with beautiful amber liquids lined the shelves--they glowed in the light of the room and towered high to the ceiling. It had the hushed atmosphere of a chapel...or very expensive spa. Their lists of products were printed beautifully on parchment-like stationary in four languages. Eau de Colognes, Pure Essences, Liquers, Oils, Tea, Soaps, Shampoos, Pot-Pourri, Creams, Lotions, in Vanilla, Camomile, Seaweed, Witch Hazel, Lavender, Iris, Pomedgranate, Sweet Almond, and so much more. 

Just look at the beauty of this place.

                               

And yes, everything was pricey, but they had some teas there that looked so amazing and were beautifully packaged. I couldn't resist...

 I only wish I wasn't allergic to perfumes and scented lotions, otherwise this place would be my home. I mean, I wish I could have stayed there all day. You can check out their website here.

(btdubs...for those Gossip Girl fans--just found out that the Officina Profuma-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella was mentioned on last night's episode.)

After that we were on our way back to Rivoire for another hot chocolate, but stumbled upon an amazing chocolate shop that was too good to pass up...

We each tried two different chocolates. The ones with champagne in the middle were amazing. The lady who worked there was incredibly sweet and had amazing earrings on. Also, when we left she let me sample one of the gelato-filled truffles for free...raspberry deliciousness.

They also sell plain bars of chocolate, bags of treats, and novelties like a chocolate hammer for your Father's Day gift. You can view their website is here.

So that was just day one. Day two (today) was also fantastic. My mother has friends here in Italy that she made when she lived here in the 80s. We met with them this morning at La Via del Te, one of the oldest tea shops in Florence. I haven't seen them since I was 6 years old, it was a very relaxing morning, although we were drenched on the way over in torrential rain (boots! you are soaked now...). I had English Breakfast but my mother was more adventurous and tried an infusion with Orange, Cinnamon, and Vanilla. 

After that we traveled over to a small boutique store that my mother had been to before. It had a beautiful handbag she wanted, and a very nice British expat worked there and we had a lovely conversation.

Then I saw it.

The most gorgeous scarf hanging around a handbag on a pedestal. It was silky and sheer, but caught my eye with the spots of gold woven through it. Red, black, white, grey, purple, and yellow don't seem to go together when you think about them. But this...

And then I looked at the tag. Genuine Missoni. No wonder the print was so fab. I'm not usually a lover of Missoni knits (though I do have one knockoff dress from Target...) and prints. The silk scarves, for the most part, make me go..."eh." But this scarf was different. This scarf was special.

Thank you Mom! Feeling very spoiled right now, I leave you. This will be my last post from Florence. My time here draws to a close on Friday and I go back to...I guess what you would call real life. now London is real life. Though that does sound glamorous, I do have a lot of business to take care of. 

 As a person who thrives on work, I am trying desperately to make myself useful again. The end of a wonderful vacation, now down to business....

xoxo,

Antonia

A Short Review: The Uffizi

It occurs to me that I never wrote a review for my trip to the Uffizi. It was created by Francesco de'Medici in the 16th Century and overlooks the Arno river. The gallery is one of those iconic places in the world (like the Louvre)--one that requires you get tickets in advance, lest you end up waiting 2 hours in line. It's always crowded, it's just a matter of degree. It houses some of the most famous paintings in the world, including The Birth of Venus (Botticelli).

It is one of those "you can't miss it" stops in Florence, but also requires planning to get through the galleries in one piece. I say it's worth stopping at the cafe halfway through, paying the cover charge to sit down and relax with a cup of coffee. you can buy your lunch there or just get a snack.

I admit, not all of the galleries in the museum were my cup of tea. Perhaps its just my own aesthetic, but i get tired of pictures filled with religious iconography. and the gold leaf triptychs. and the martyred saints. Perhaps its the costume historian in me, but i love seeing the works that depicted the current life, not the myths and stories of ages past.

Tangent: For example, at the Galleria dell'Accademia, besides the statue of the David I was most interested in the Cassone Adimari (1450, by Lo Scheggia), for it depicted the preparation for a wedding in Renaissance Italy. Here is just a part of the overall scene:

So a few works stood out to me more than others in the Uffizi. It was great seeing the Birth of Venus up close, but it was so crowded (think Mona Lisa at the Louvre). Also, after seeing an iconic two-dimensional painting reproduced in books for most of your life, it is hard for it to seem particularly special up close (unless you have a real connection to the piece). Personally, I think sculpture can be more incredible up close, as a two-dimensional picture cannot capture it in full (ie Winged Victory at the Louvre).

Don't get me wrong. Some pieces took my breath away. Others made me think, and research more when I got home. Here are a few of my favorites that stood out:

Adoration of the Magi. Da Vinci, 1481-82

1469-1472: Series of Panels by Pollaiolo, depicting virtues: Temperance, Faith, Charity, Hope, Justice, Prudence, and (an early work by Botticelli) Fortitude. These are some amazing portraits of women--and look how kick ass Fortitude is (also, how Botticelli's style differs from Pollaiolo).

A few others I cannot find pictures online for, but they include Boscoli's Piramo e Tisbe, Spagnolo's Cupid & Psyche, and Pannini's Pool of Betsaida.

A gorgeous place, a great visit.

Surprise! UCSC comes to Florence.

Some days here are full of museum trips and once-in-a-lifetime activities, but as I enter week two of my travels here in Firenze things have begun to fall into a more familiar pattern. I am living in an apartment, I am with my mom. We cook, we run errands, we just go out shopping. It feels like home, kinda--just enhanced. I mean, I'm at home on my computer, but here i sit drinking espresso out of the tiniest, cutest little cup with the tiniest biscotti (and LARGEST chocolate chunks i have ever seen. seriously. they take up like half the biscotti).

Yesterday was one of those lazy days--a real Saturday with the feeling I usually get during winter vacation. The air is crisp, I can smell the leaves and feel them crunch under my (new!) boots. My mom and i wandered up past the Duomo and stumbled upon a number of cool shops and stops. When you have no real itinerary, the freedom can be fantastic.

There was an amazing vintage store full of designer shoes and bags, amazing Armani sparkly dresses and a red Gucci vanity case. The saleswoman watched us like a hawk, though, and the pricetags were still far out of range. So we ditched that and moved along. We came upon an amazing shop full of papier-mache masks: Alice's Mask Art Studio.

The place is gorgeous--filled like an old antique store, but the trunks are brimming with commedia masks, no masks, plaster casts. They sparkle and shine. Some are grotesque. Full masks, half masks, carnivale masks. Though the market stalls are full of cheap knockoffs for 3 euros, these masks are art, and worth every penny.

My favorite is a half mask, bronze with ribbon ties. The delicate face is laced with a puzzle piece motif, and though there are others like it, it seems utterly unique. Like most of the hand-made items in the store.

After that we wander past a store called Dixie. They looked like a boutique store with one of a kind items, but they are actually more of a small chain. They prices are similar to Urban Outfitters, and they are pretty awesome. I tried on two dresses I fell in love with, but am waiting before i commit to the price. You can check out their collection here.

After that, a stroll through Piazza della Repubblica, where we found a lovely Saturday market. Beautiful stalls with cheese, wine, olive oil, pastries, crepes, jams, and more. Samples of everything, and it felt very much like Christmas shopping. Or like the Art and Wine Festival in Capitola.

But the VERY best part of the day was the arrival of Brandin and Giusi!! No pictures, alas, alack, but my favorite costuming duo arrived in town this week for a conference and we all had dinner together last night. It was great catching up with them--a piece of home when I am so far away. I heard all the gossip (yes, about you guys) and we had such a nice night in such a beautiful city. What a fun opportunity, and Giusi and I plan on going fabric shopping on Monday. Woo!

Hope you all had a lovely weekend as well.
xoxo,
Antonia

A Short Review: Bronzino exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi

Earlier this week, on a morning trip up to the Ferragamo Shoe Museum (which was closed, sadly), my mother and stumbled upon the exhibit, which we now see advertised all over town:

Bronzino. Artist and Poet at the Court of the Medici, at the Palazzo Strozzi.

The Palazzo Strozzi is a Rennaissance domestic dwelling comissioned by the Florentine merchant Filippo Strozzi. It was built in the 15th century and construction continued well into the next. As a piece of architecture, it is pretty magnificent, but it is also a temporary exhibition hall for art exhibits.

You can visit their website here.

The exhibit heavily featured the portraiture of Bronzino for the Duke Cosimo I de'Medici of Florence, from the 16th Century. The detailed work on the costume in the paintings is quite extraordinary, especially up close if you ever have the opportunity. This gives great insight not only into the silhouettes of the time period, but also into what rich fabrics were used to create such garments.

This portrait of Francesco I de'Medici, from 1551, shows the boy wearing a doublet with a rich brocade. The way it shines in the light, in the painting, is quite vivid.

Though you cannot tell from this image, this portrait of Maria I de'Medici, also from 1551, shows her wearing a gorgeous dark green velvet dress. It felt like you could reach out and touch real velvet.

In his Portrait of a Man (1550-55), the black damask cloak is particularly striking. 

One of Bronzino's most famous works (along with Elenora di Toledo with her son Giovanni, which I referenced in my last post) would be this: Lucrezia Panciatichi, 1541. In addition to the vivid color and sumptuous material, note that the construction on the dress is partially visible. The detail is incredible, right down to her necklace, which reads "amour dure sans fin."

The exhibit runs until Jan 23, 2011. The details can be found here.

We ended the afternoon at Caffe Scudieri. Est. Florence 1939. They have amazing candies and treats lined up in the windows, and the smell of the pastries is amazing. We sat down inside and had a cappuccino and I watched two tiny Italian women down espresso and TWO giant pastries each. Respect. 

Bags, Boots, Breads, and more!

The weather has turned in Florence and now that it's sunny it's time to bust out the new addition to my boot collection! Those of you who know me know my intense love for boots. Flat boots, tall boots, riding boots, over-the-kneee, ankle, suede, brown, black, grey, tan, slouchy--you name it! It's part of the reason I love the cold weather so much.

Italy has a love for boots as well. Like in London, I envy the boots I see from tourists all over the world. "Mi piacce i tuoi stivali" means "I like your boots." I think.

But unlike Londoners, the styles of coats this winter are very different. I've been craving a gorgeous trench coat since before arriving in Europe. In fact, I saw a beautiful black one that fit perfectly in Macy's (I think it was DKNY) on sale for only $100 in the states! Silly me, I decided to wait before I bought one and now I cannot find the classic trench I adore. Of course, Burberry always has style...for min 750 pounds.

I'm also a lover of a good wool coat, and want one for the future, if only I could find one.

However, Italian style on the streets of Florence is leaning more toward the return of the puffy jacket. shiny nylon puffy jackets. That's right--they've never been so chic.

Further research might explain they phenomenon. but i see them everywhere. on fashionistas, on mature women in Chanel suits and Cartier jewelry. They are short, long, belted, shiny, matte, fur lined, hooded. Perhaps they evoke the idea that "oh i'm just getting my groceries and then I'm off to the Italian Alps for the weekend." For me, though, seeing them in November in 68 degree weather seems a bit absurd. Will it last? What do you think? Personally, I'll stick to the search for the timeless trench.

Finally on the fashion front, something I've always noticed, from Milan to Florence, is that Italian women take great pride in their designer handbags. Don't get me wrong--I am a collector myself. I love my Kate Spade bag for all occasions and my teeny tiny Prada reserved for those special ones. But the Italian women always has a great big designer bag.

 Here's the thing. They are signature bags. I'm not so fond of the Louis Vuitton and the Gucci but women do buy them because they never go out of style. I don't need my LVs or my interlocking Gs--I want a bag that is aesthetically pleasing, not merely a status symbol. I know these "classic" looks last for decades--therefore making a large bag an investment in style. Yes, women in America do this as well, but it's another trend I've noticed. Great pride in handbags.

On top of all this window shopping, I've been loving the bread here in Italy. Normally I stay away from so many breads, pastries, and sweet, but here they are irresistible. Here's a look at some of the delicious bread we got from the local market, as well as the homemade tirimisu I talked about in a previous post.

Getting hungry. Maybe it's time for a snack.

Also, I am loving this book I picked up at the Uffizi. It's called "Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing," by Carole Collier Frick.

you can find it on Amazon here.

It started off a little dense, with talk of the Florentine Guild System and Tailoring, but it covers the history of dress, the fabrics, the professions associated, their social standing, and the ritual surrounding dress. It's quite fascinating and I leave you with a quote from the intro:

"This book attempts to better understand the society of this fifteenth-century city, not by focusing on a particular event or group of people, but instead by investigating a node of common concern among them, that is, their clothes. I am interested in the irony that the making of clothing functioned to unite people across class lines, while at the same time the clothes themselves were manipulated to amplify the distinction between those classes."

xoxo,

Antonia

A Short Review: Galleria del Costumes di Palazzo Pitti

What an amazing morning. Move over V&A, today I visited the Costume Gallery at the Pitti Palace, and it is my new favorite costume collection. The Palazzo Pitti was the home of Cosimo I de'Medici and his wife Eleonora di Toledo. Today it is home to a number of museum collections (and the extensive Boboli Gardens) including the Costume Gallery.

What I love about looking at historical garments is that they are like art. Like sculpture. Meant to be seen and studied up close. I could see the prick stitches on this 18th century jacket, the real sheen on that Fortuny dress.

The gallery has a rotating collection, and this exhibition was called: Fashion, A World of Similarities and Differences. While the V&A has a grand collection of costume history and important designer names (from Worth to McQueen), it only goes through fashion history sequentially. The collection here in Florence takes a different approach, showcasing similar silhouettes in exhibition rooms. There is a room dedicated to the empire look, to the 3 piece suit, to the drop waist--all throughout fashion history. A gown from the 1970s will sit next to a gown from the 20s and you can see just how we borrow and change throughout history.

Also...there is a room full of sparkly dresses. I'm just saying...

(note: this pictures come from the book i purchased, as pictures were not allowed inside)

However, probably the most significant part of the collection is the actual clothing that Cosimo I de'Medici, Eleonora di Toledo, and their son Don Garzia were buried in. Remarkably, their bodies were exhumed a number of times over the centuries, and the remains of their garments were removed in 1947 for in depth research. Yes, it gives amazing insight into what the Medici court wore in the 16th Century, and I am incredibly fortunate to have seen it.

The pieces are laid out like flat patterns, as they are too delicate to reassemble. It took decades of research to put the exhibit together, and is quite a feat. I learned and absorbed so much there. From the types of silk satins used for Eleonora throughout her life, to the way she was haphazardly dressed for burial (the sides of her bodice laced up wrong and one stocking inside out) for fear of catching her illness.

At first, walking through the gallery I was filled with excitement as the nerdy fashion historian in me took over. However, the more I read, the more I stared at the clothes in the dimly lit room, the more melancholy I became. the place became heavy. These weren't just pieces of clothing on display, as in the other rooms. There was a face to put to them. A history.

 And it wasn't like seeing a mummified body in an Egyptian sarcophagus or a stone tomb in a chapel. These things almost dehumanize the person in their display. They become pieces of science, or history. But to look at a person's real clothes? Clothes they were buried in for hundreds of years? Story and garment combined, these historical figures become frail. Human. Relateable.

Isn't if funny how a garment has the ability to produce this feeling more than a tomb? At least, that was how I felt.

The excursion did not end on a heavy note. The exictement of the collection, and the beauty of the grounds and gardens, could not be marred. It also helped that we stopped at Mama's Bakery on the way home. American coffee, bagels, and cupcakes--yum! Also, there was a Giant's pennant behind the counter and American Vogue on the table. Woo!

Day 11: Florence Top 10......(or retail therapy 2.0)

Ok. I admit it. things don't always go smoothly in the life of an adventurer. there are tough days as well as great days. we're now fully in to week two, and i think a certain level of homesick is starting to kick in.

when times are tough, i hear it's great to focus on the positive. and i like making lists. so here's my top 10 list of awesome & surprising things i've learned in Florence (so far)...

10. When you're feeling down, never underestimate the power of gelato.

not only is it delicious, but it has less fat content than regular ice cream.

9. Staying in can be almost as enjoyable as going out. Last night my mother and I made our own eggplant parmesan and tiramisu for dinner and dessert. Since we won't be spending the major holidays together this year, this trip is a great chance to spend some quality time together in--watching movies, making delicious food, and having fun.

8. Always check ahead to see if a museum is open (and make a reservation so you don't get stuck in a 2 hour line at the Uffizi). Alert. The Ferragamo Shoe Museum is closed till Nov. 18 for renovation :(

7. The Italians make a mean veggie burger. Vegetarians, if you're studying abroad or spending and extended holiday in Italy, check out Valsoia in your local grocer's freezer. These things are like Morningstar burgers--and they have meatballs and chicken patties as well.

6. Candy! Chocolate! Wine! Pasta! Olive Oil! If you want delicious gifts to bring home for the holidays, try the Mercato Centrale.

You can also get your fresh local produce there.

5. To me, the city looks almost as spectacular at night as it does during the day.

4. Walking through the streets I smell waffles. No, I'm not talking Rosco brand fog--real waffles. You can get them at the gelateria and they smell a-mazing. better than waffle cone smell (and let's face it, that's the best).

3. Costumers! Look up the work of Bronzino, especially the Medici Portraits, for fantastic costume history research.

The way he painted cloth and clothing was spectacular and revolutionary for his time. If you've taken Brandin's class, you've seen his work.

2. Looking at the designer shops can be fun. Beautiful, but depressing if you're on a budget. Don't linger too long--go down to the outdoor marketplace and buy yourself a nice substitute for less. Or, if you want to splurge, try the local boutiques or leather factory stores. Beautiful, and still less than a Chanel (plus, you can't buy them everywhere!)

1. My number one perk for the week? Early Christmas! Thanks, Mom, for the gorgeous new boots :)

From Italy

xoxo,
antonia