Japan 4.0: Osaka!

Well, when Lonely Planet said that Osaka was the antithesis of Kyoto, they weren't messing around.

But let's start at the beginning of our day. Today was our last morning in Kyoto, an we decided (after one...or two last croissants at ChocoCro) that we couldn't leave without seeing the golden gates at Fushimi Inari-Taisha. It was a quick hop on the subway, but we were transported from the city to a suburb that felt small town. Policemen even directed traffic on tiny streetcorners.

The foxes are only at shrines to Inari--god of rice. The key in its mouth is to the granary.

The day was wonderful--slightly overcast like a day in SF or even SC. The temp was about 50. The other days had been great too--sunny and warm but not too much. Perfect climate and reprieve from the icy winds of Seoul. The shrine was still packed with peole for the new year. The gates were gorgeous--some fading more than others--and we followed them up the mountain. I got the feeling the minute they finished repaiting the gates they'd have to start all over, like the golden gate bridge. Each of the torii was donated by a Japanese business, as Inari was also the patron of business. I think that's what the inscriptions on the torii mean.

these gates run for miles. its easy to get turned around.

some new year celebration and prayer still happening

After that we were off on the train to Osaka. Big city streets. Wide roads. Tall buildings. If Kyoto was like San Francisco, Osaka was like Los Angeles. We checked into our hostel and went out for a walk to see the sites of Dotonbori Arcade and Shinsaibashisuji Shopping Arcade. Well first we passed the giant--I mean giant-- designer stores.

Chanel Towers, anyone?

Then we saw the sparkly buildings. Then we saw the famous Gilco man. This place was insane. Neon lights everywhere. Flamboyance, I think, is the key word. It was like Vegas, times square, and picadilly circus rolled in to one. And a plethora of cliche guys in Japanese street fashion. I really really wanted to take a picture.

 What? Best thing ever!

This funny thing happened in Dotonbori. And a bit in Kyoto too. After spending so long walking around big cities, with so many people, you start to forget where you are. I could have been back in London. I could have been in SF. I think it's because you don't talk to people, sometimes you barely interact. Language barriers are torn down and you start speaking the international language of...something. Hustle and bustle, perhaps? A city, to some degree, is a city. It's when you begin to see things on the smaller scale. Going to home plus in Korea. Going to a small shrine with locals in Kyoto. That's when you see more of a real country. I am glad in Japan I have experienced both.

So Steve, Lana, and I sit in what we affectionately refer to as the hipster hotel. Think of an SF coffee shop/coop/college common room combined with Urban Outfitters and beds. That's where we are staying. In the lounge, sharing a sake an some chocolate before getting a few hours rest. We are up at dawn to make our way back home. And maybe to sleep for the next couple of days. I come back to California, and the real world, in one week. I'd better enjoy this while I can.

Xoxo,
Antonia

PS: See the rest of the vacation pics here:

Japan!

PPS: video coming soon!

Japan 3.0: Gold, Silks, and...Zen?

Yesterday was an amazing day in Kyoto. I think this is just one of those cities that I really have fallen in love with. It's big but you can walk everywhere, the bus system is so intuitive, the mix of old and new is fantastic, it's so much more like London than other cities Ive been too--it has that feeling and now I know I want to come back. And visit Tokyo.

A few bits of info I've picked up. First off, traffic is British style so my habit of looking Right Left Right serves me very well! Second--you cannot say thank you enough. Third, put your money in the tray on the counter, not in the cashiers hands. Fourth--everything is really expensive. Five, if you are vegetarian, really do your research and find out where/what you can eat. Six, no one jay walks. Seven, not as many peole speak English as you would assume. Eight, just don't assume.

Nishijin Textile Center. Saw a kimono fashion show and weaving textiles. And bought fabric.

The famous Golden Pavilion at the Kinkaku/Eokuom-Ji Temple.

Ryoanji Temple and the famous zen garden.

Choco cro. Dude, this place is amazing.

Today is our last full day here--we are off to Osaka in the afternoon, but hope to get in one more site--fushimi Inari is our first choice. Tonight perhaps sake bar in Osaka--and an early flight out of Kansai tomorrow.

Hope all is well and everyone has a great weekend.

Xoxo,
Antonia

Japan 2.0: Happy Year of the Rabbit!

Happy New Year, everyone!

It is now year of the hare, so all you '87ers out there, this one is ours! Today we woke up in Kyoto--what a great thing to say. This city is a-mazing, and with the Setsuban celebrations it was doubly so. Lana pointed out a great place on our street to get breakfast--a place called Choco Cro.

Yeah, they serve chocolate croissants almost exclusively. And coffee. Sooo amazing.

Now, navigating a new city is always a challenge. From food to transportation to human interactions. It's always a good idea to be polite, but in Japan it actually serves you well. People are very helpful, and very gracious. A breath of fresh air after the lack of customer service and common courtesy I found in England. However, it didn't take much for the three of is to find our way today. From buying tickets, to taking the bus, to navigating the streets--it was easier than I had thought. Perhaps life as an adventurer has had it's practical advantages.

Our first stop was actually a wrong turn that turned right. The Shinnyido Temple as less touristy and more of a place people came to pray, meditate, and pay their respects at on New Years Day.

At the top of a small hill/mountain it was incredibly peaceful. it almost seemed rude to be a tourist there, but no one bothered us and we were respectful. From there we were easily able to walk through to the Yoshida Shrine.

 It was crowded with so many more people, and outside of it was a huge market for the festival. A huge bonfire was being prepared with offerings for the evening. There was amazing street food--though I had to watch out, being vegetarian.

 Had the best corn on the cob of my life, and really wanted to try the chocolate covered banana with hello panda stuck to it.

From there we walked down the hill and back into town, where we caught the bus to Gion. Shopping was way too much fun, and afterwards we went to the Yasaka Shrine.

We saw Geisha's perform their traditional dance, and as they entered and exited the stage they were treated like celebrities. Everyone was snapping photos like a red carpet event in leisceister square. We caught some of the performance on video.

 After the dance was over the entire ensemble threw beans in the air at us, in celebration of the new year. We even snagged a bag.

After the performance we took a walk at golden hour through the beautiful streets of the okazaki area. So many more crafts stores, buddah statues, tea houses and temples.

Geisha sighting!

Tomorrow we plan to go to the Nishijin Textile Center (my personal favorite!) and then Kinkakuji Temple (home of the Golden Pavilion) and Ritsumeikan Daigakumae to see the zen gardens. Hopefully after so much walking we can have a bit of a lie in (and more choco cro...)

hope all is well in February. Oh, did the groundhog see his shadow?

Xoxo,
Antonia

Japan 1.0: Welcome to Kyoto

...we are now taking a break from our regularly scheduled programming. Do not adjust your computer monitors. For the next few posts I will be updating from my phone--sans pictures unfortunately, but I want to blog while japan is still fresh in my mind. EDIT 2/6: Pictures now--all taken by Lana and myself.

Sunset at Kansai

So Lana, Steve and I made it to Kyoto, Japan after a long day of travel! Mind you, the flight to Osaka from Seoul is only 1hr45min, but we had to catch an airport bus, which run once every three hours, and be mindful of traffic. It's lunar new year here and the traffic today would be as bad as the day before thanksgiving. So we spent a lot of time at the airport, which is a glorified mall with some planes you can catch home instead of a bus.

Arriving in japan was surreal. For the first time in my adventuring the past few months, I was in a country where not one person in our party knew where we were. It was square one for all of us. Fortunately, good planning saved us. We took an express train from Kansai airport straight into the heart of Kyoto. Our lovely hostel (highly ranked by my favorite trvel site: hostelworld.com) was only 2 subway stops away. Perfect. The subwy was where we stalled. But it was easy enough to get back on track, check in, and realize we were really hungry for a good japanese food dinner.

Right next to the hostel was a little alley, pointing to a tiny restaurant that said "vegetarian food and bar" so we went in. First off, I'm surprised at how many places we have been so far in Kyoto don't have english translations--food places especially. I'm not saying that they should--it's just even Seoul seemed to have more, and Kyoto is such a major tourist city.

So anyway, we enter this tiny little restaurant. Or rather, it's set up almost like a jazz coffee bar you'd find in Berkeley or something. Books on the shelf, bar to eat at. Piano in the corner and coffee+vegan cake for sale. Jazz played on the radio and the three of us had a "where are we?" moment. The lady did not speak English, but she did speak the international language of crazy cat lady. Cat stuff as everywhere--calenders, toys, pictures. You name it. There was even a cat in the restaurant (sanitary...?) anyway--there was a small stove and food that seemed to belong to a greasy spoon or your grandmothers kitchen. Except vegan.
The menu was in Japanese except for "vegetarian platter" which was the main dish. We took a chance and ordered three.

Now, those of you who know me well understand that I am a very picky person. And I don't like surprises in my food. But here we were, and for the first time since I arrived in Asia I could order something blindly off the menu and not worry about meat. So I did. And I tried it all. Even the mushrooms. My vegetables were mixed. Some of you should be proud. It was incredibly delicious and for the first time I felt I was really experiencing the overall culture f a place. Culinary adventures.

Not wanting to go back to our hostel right away, we went for a walk and stumbled upon a few ice cream parlours. Or rather, parfait parlours. Um...wow these things were amazing works of art. Lana and I couldn't resist--we got a chocolate parfait with vanilla, brownie, and whipped cream. A perfect end to the day.

Nishiki Market.

Lipton Tea House..a place for dessert and dinner?

mmmm....

Our private triple room is now the adventure fort. We sit under one of the bunks with the emergency flashlight that comes in our room and plot out the next day's adventures. Tomorrow I hope to see some crazy shit--it's new years day and there are theatre performances, dances, and bonfires around the temples. Epic.

Xoxo,
Antonia