A Short Review: The DMZ

ok...its not really a review. The DMZ isn't like a show you go see in the West End. In fact, it was one of the most intense places I have ever visited. And the most dangerous. But also...probably one of the coolest.

The Demilitarized Zone is the 4km wide strip of land that divides North and South Korea.

Today Lana, Steve, and I traveled all the way to the Military Demarcation Line--to the Joint Security Area in Panmunjom. This is the place where the North and South Korean Soldiers stand face to face. Sometimes quite literally. I would like to say that Lana and I took all of these pictures ourselves. This time, none have come from the internet (well, except the map).

We were up at the crack of dawn...well actually quite a few hours earlier. At 4:30 we were up and out the door by 5am to start our Journey to the USO base in Seoul. From there we took a bus to Camp Bonifas where we were handed over to US MPs who gave us a tour of the JSA. After a short presentation (where we signed our lives away--coolest document I've ever signed by far) we were off to Freedom House and the UNCMAC Conference Building--where talks take place between both sides.

At Camp Bonifas with our special badges

 In Freedom House

Lana holding quite possibly the coolest and scariest document she's ever signed.

The tension could really be felt. The group (mostly Americans) went from laughing and joking on the bus, to forming tight single files lines behind our Military Escort through Freedom house and to Conference Row. We were not allowed to make any contact with the North Koreans from where we stood--verbal or non-verbal. We could see Panmungak from where we stood, and North Korean Soldiers.

 Panmungak from Conference Row.

 North Korean Soldiers. 

The concrete divide on the MDL

Inside the UNCMAC Conference Building we saw the ROK Army up close.They have some great uniforms. They wear the helmet and the aviator sunglasses (specifically) so the North Korean army cannot read any emotion on their faces. They also have ball bearings sewn in the hem of their pants--the jingling sound makes it sounds like 1,000, not 100, soldiers are charging towards you.

Awesome ROK. He's there to protect us, but could also take us out if we messed about. That door leads in to North Korea.

Sooo...technically I went in to North Korea today. Inside the conference room, once you cross the table, you are in North Korea. You can see from my photos that we have crossed the concrete slab border.

Technically I am in North Korea while taking this picture.

Steve's in the south. I'm in the North.

I think this is an appropriate moment to point out that I turned to Lana and said "This shit just got real."

From there we got back on our tour buses and went to a Checkpoint where we could see Kijong-dong, or "Propaganda Village" on the other side of the DMZ. That flagpole is 160m tall, and the flag itself weighs around 600 pounds. It has to be a really windy day for it to fly. Yeah, it was that windy. and that cold. Until 2004 they played propaganda over massive loudspeakers trying to get the southerners to defect. Our MP said they could hear it on the base of Camp Bonifas at night.

 Propaganda Village

We also went past the sight of the Ax Murder Incident and The Bridge of No Return. But we could only snap pictures from the bus.

The Bridge of No Return. Note: no footprints on the bridge, only leading up to it.

Later on in the tour we went to the Third Infiltration Tunnel, where we were not allowed to take pictures. Then the Dora Observatory.

We actually spotted a person walking around Propaganda Village--very surreal. Also, we weren't allowed to take pictures past a certain line.

Finally, we ended the day Dorasan Station, which housed the railway that took South Koreans through to North Korea to visit until an terrible incident in 2008 shut the station down completely. It still sits there, and you can get a commemorative stamp (which cannot be put on your passport). It was only open about 10 years ago, and it sits there almost waiting for a day when people can travel between the two sides peacefully.

Rice grown in the DMZ for sale.

Oh did I mention that the DMZ is basically a wildlife preserve? Huge eagles (we saw flying). Vampire Deer. Seriously. that's what they're called. Look it up. (Real name: Siberian Musk Deer. We did not see).

All in all, it was a day that I think the three of us are still fully processing. Not many people make this tour--and only a certain amount of people are allowed per day. Besides our tour and Military Escort (both US MPs and ROK soldiers), the JSA was deserted. As was Camp Bonifas. As was the DMZ. So strange that such a quiet place is the source of so much tension. It doesn't seem like it can be real...but there it is. We started at 5am and ended at 5pm--back in the apartment trying to warm ourselves up after a long day out in the freeeezing cold. Emotionally drained, happy we went to go eat some cookies.

If you ever have the chance to visit South Korea, you absolutely cannot miss this tour. It is both a part of our history, a part of Korean history, and something both epic and very sad. I know I'll never forget the experience...and that's what really counts when adventuring, right?

xoxo,
Antonia

btdubs, more pics of Seoul, and the DMZ now online:

Korea

Gwangneung and British Culture Day

Today Lana and I visited Gwangneung, the Royal Tomb of King Sejo, of the Joseon Dynasty. It was a beautiful site in the mountains just outside her town. We originally went up on that bus route to visit a temple, but after getting off at the wrong bus stop we ended up at the Tombs--one of those happy accidents in life.

It was beautiful and so peaceful and Lana and I were the only people up there. Admission to the site was only 1,000 won ($1). It was really cold out but I cannot remember the last time I had been up in the mountains in the snow.

The site held the tomb of both King Sejo and his Queen, Jeonghui, buried in 1468 and 1483 respectively. This picture comes from the view at the top of the Queen's burial mound (the raised hill denotes a Buddhist burial ground).

Afterwards we went up the road to a ceramics store and a tea house. The tea house wasn't open, unfortunately, but it had some amazing ice formations and icicles. It was really freezing out. Also...the "Euro Castle Motel" was next door.

I then went with Lana and Steve to their classes--and taught the kids a little bit about British culture. We played games and watched a little Harry Potter...but the coolest part was our tea tasting and biscuit party. It was surprising to find out what teas the kids liked best. They smelled the teas and liked Celestial Seasoning's "Sugar Cookie Tea" and hated the smell of Earl Grey. But in the end Earl Grey was one of the most popular to taste! A fun day was had by all.

Tomorrow: DMZ trip!

xoxo,
Antonia

Korea, Day Two

Culture Shock. Its an interesting phenomenon.

In some countries the effect is subtle. England, for one, is very similar on the surface to the US. Both English speaking countries, similar customs and culture. Its funny--my firsts trips there felt no different than exploring a new city in the US--it was all about the sights, the attractions, and the funny things like "beans on toast." But I never felt like I was in another country, really.

Sometimes it takes time for those things to set in. When you spend a longer time in a country you begin to see the differences. When you can't get your brand of toothpaste at the store. Trying to make your favorite dish (mexican food) or going to the doctor for that pesky cold.

But then there are places you visit in the world where you obviously experience culture shock right away. To some degree I had it in France and Italy, but with all of the similarities between the languages, and after studying a bit of it, it was easy to get accustomed to traveling there. It also helped that most people spoke some English (except one village I went to in Italy), having my mother translate, or that I could deduce what was going on from the signs and layout of the places I went.

Korea is completely different. Walking down the street is difficult, in some ways, because there is nothing familiar I can latch on to. There are very few signs that are translated to English in Namyangju because it's a smaller country "village" (with high rise buildings). I am sure Seoul itself will be different. But I don't know what each shop is--I don't know what they sell, or what they say. It can be disorienting, frankly. I feel very fortunate that I am on vacation here and do not have to seek out the same things that I did in London. Those of you who know me well know that I am no good at learning new languages. Even when I try really hard, it just doesn't stick in my brain.

Today was great though. Simple--we went on the bus (!) to another town and Costco! Things were the same, but different. You could get completely Korean things there, but also Martinelli's sparkling cider and Kirkland Mac and Cheese. After that, I braved the cold (it was like 15 degrees fahrenheit) and took a walk by myself up a country road. Didn't get very far today, but it was very peaceful--different than the highways, or the downtown (it was market day. There were sharks for sale.) Here are some pics:

the view from the apartments

frozen river

very pretty blue

finally--the apartment. isn't it really awesome?! It has heated floors too. Which is a tradition, in fact, that goes back centuries--ondol heating. Although in the old days they used to light a fire underneath...

Its been a slow journey getting over my jetlag--everyone says going west is easier but I swear going east is! Each day we do a little more, and this weekend will certainly be a crazy one. More pictures in the picasa album.

xoxo,

Antonia

Unexpected Detours

Well dear readers, I apologize for the delay in blog posting. I realize its been two weeks now, and things have been quite hectic.

This morning I am watching my second sunrise is South Korea.

I know some of you must be thinking "wahhhh?" right about now. Well, I'll tell you: the first week of January was a bit of a bust. Passports, rejections, British consulate. Yeah. I had to leave my lovely home, friends, and family in London and make the long trek back to the states. And I had a lovely week there seeing everyone I love (there maaaay have been a surprise visit, which was difficult to plan to wonderful to do!).

But Seoul was calling, apparently. My friends Lana and Steve have been teaching English in a town outside of the city for over 5 months now. I thought that in my travels I would like to visit them, and I have been fortunate enough to have that now happen (and Lana and Steve are gracious enough to have me stay for 2 1/2 weeks). Even more exciting...next week the 3 of us are taking a whirlwind trip to Japan! Kyoto and Osaka, to be precise. I'm back in California permanently 2 days before I turn 24. And what a year 23 has been. A good one indeed.

So I have only been here for one day but Korea is crazy! For the first time I was seated in an exit row, where I learned that Flight Attendants play favorites. I got free ice cream, it was delicious. I also met a very nice military man stationed in Korea. He and the flight attendants gave me lots of cool advice on things to see and do in Korea.

Got ripped off at the airport with a $200 cab fare and a driver who didn't speak much English. Driving from Incheon to the town where I am staying was crazy--seeing the skyline, the blood red sunset. It was almost blade-runner esque. The lights at night are neon at night and look more like art to me. Lana and Steve were so welcoming, and their apartment is great. It's part of Lotte Castle, which is like their mega brand here. For more info on Korea, check out Steve and Lana's blog.

The view from the apartment.

 Lotte everything!

Sparkly wallpaper!

 The village

Mad Dog "British Pub"

Lotteria Ad Campaign

Home Plus Sells TESCO! Who knew?!

Awesome Monopoly Money.

Today we are off to Korean Costco, maybe pop by their work. Tomorrow I am going to help them teach the kids for British Culture day. This weekend will be the museums in Seoul and a USO trip to the DMZ. so exciting!

 Never did I think that in the course of four months I would be able to visit England, Italy, Korea, and Japan. I had hoped I might be able to but now that I am, it's just been the most amazing experience. Things haven't turned out the way I had hoped, but I am looking forward to a future working back in California, and until then, adventure on! I will be posting on the blog, I promise. And the future posts will probably be a little more eloquent--jet lag after traveling from England to California to South Korea in two weeks has been insane.

xoxo,
Antonia

Baking Adventures

There's nothing like waking up on a rainy day, warm and snug in your bed. That is, only when you don't have anywhere to go or anything pressing to do that day.

Today was a day like that for me. I woke up to the sound of steady rain outside my bedroom window. I opened the blinds but didn't even turn on the light. Instead, I lit my lovely smelling candles from IKEA--vanilla and berries--and decided to read by candlelight. I know, it's bad for my eyes, but it was just such a fun thing to do. I went to the kitchen, poured myself a big steaming cup of coffee, cut off a piece of my homemade banana bread, and shuffled back to my warm bed. I curled up with The Moonstone and made a lovely morning of it. Ahh...this is my favorite part of winter back home. And now I can officially say I am glad there is no more snow in London. I'm a rain kind of girl. It's less cold.

I did eventually go out. I spent time cleaning my room, running errands, even popped into Nero for a coffee and continuation of the mysterious disappearance of the moonstone, and got ingredients for...

CUPCAKES!

My wonderful roommates got me the Hummingbird Bakery cookbook for Christmas this year, and I decided to take a stab at their delicious, yet simple, vanilla cupcakes with vanilla frosting. I must say, they were delicious--not the same as getting them from the Hummingbird Bakery on Portobello Road, but much cheaper!

Now I am usually a modest person, but I do have to say I know my way around the kitchen when it comes to baked goods. I thought: Cupcakes? Piece of Cake!

Well...they aren't. First off--buttercream frosting is hard to make! Maybe if i had an upright (and very deep) mixer it would be better. but there was powdered sugar e.v.e.r.y.w.h.e.r.e. (Sorry roomies--I cleaned it up!) the speed of our hand mixer goes from light speed--ludicrous speed, apparently. I tried a lot by hand. Same with the dough--they have you mix lots of dry ingredients with butter, without other liquid so you can imagine. My lungs are filled with flour and sugar. Buttercream frosting is also hard to spread--and the sprinkles didn't really stick to it.

Oh well. I now know I'd never open a cupcake boutique. I'm going to getter better at making them, though! New Year's Resolution! Let's just hope everyone thinks they taste all right.

Tomorrow: Borough Market with Angela. Expect a post.

xoxo,
Antonia

2 Days in the City of London

The past week has been a pretty hectic one, and I'll admit--I haven't had much time to go out adventuring in London. Not that I really wanted to--the after Boxing Day sales made Central London a madhouse. Previous to the holidays, I got a bit stuck in a rut. Kensington, Green Park, Picadilly, Oxford St, Covent Garden. I went to these places so often that I felt I needed a change.

So I decided yesterday that I would venture off the beaten path--well, off my regular pattern. Both days I ended up spending a lot of time in the City. For those of you who don't know, the City of London is only one square mile. The rest is actually a part of Greater London. Westminster, Spitafields, etc. Yesterday I had aspirations to go to Sir John Soane's Museum near Holborn. I got off the Tube and ended up very close it it--at Lincoln's Inn Fields--the largest public square in London (layout designed by Inigo Jones). Now I'm sure on a beautiful summer day it is green and lovely, but in the dead of winter it looked a lot more eerie. It seemed the perfect place to begin a mystery novel.

From there I'll admit I got lost. I couldn't find the museum, and as was my luck, I forgot to bring my favorite London map with me. So I decided to wander--the eastern part of the city was much less familiar to me. Perhaps I would stumble upon something new and interesting. I ended up wandering down Chancery Lane and ended up on Fleet Street. I even past by Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, a famous pub. And I found views of the city and street I used in my Sweeney Todd research.

I ended up passing over Millennium Bridge and taking the long way back to the tube on the South Bank. I always love the walk along there.

Today it rained. It felt like true London weather. I took the Tube to St. Paul's Cathedral, and from there I walked to the Museum of London. Now of all the museums I have visited thus far, Museum of London is the most modern in look and feel. It only covers the history of London, from pre-modern to modern times. It is actually quite interesting; the place is very interactive. There are walkthroughs of city streets from the 1800s, clever video projections next to ancient artifacts. They even have some historical costume pieces. The place was much better at creating ambiance.

I wandered down the streets in the City, past Mansion House, and all the way up to Spitafields Market to take a trip to Absolute Vintage. It was still raining. Let me tell you--if you want a taste of old London, spend some time wandering around the City. The streets are smaller, the buildings older and dirtier. The place has the feeling of Sweeney Todd, or Oliver. Something from the pages of Sherlock Holmes or a Dicken's Novel. Of course, it is also a business center--so between the old buildings you get Pret and Nero, suits and black cabs. Easier to remember now that this is  a working city.

I won't be abandoning my favorite places, however. I have another date with the V&A (and their scones) next week.

xoxo,
Antonia